Standing atop this large hill, with the giant dome of a glacier looming on the other side of the bay, I really could feel the full impact of Antarctica. It’s difficult to conceptualize how life could be so present in a place so harsh. The light we experienced on our landing on D’Hainaut Island was exquisite. We began our landing with completely overcast skies, which were dropping huge snowflakes onto the penguin rookery. After about an hour, the light broke and the evening light poured over the scene. From there, a storm socked in and the winds picked up as we were headed back on the zodiacs to the ship. The weather can change in an instant in Antarctica, and every bit of it is exhilarating.

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